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Μπότες Ορειβασίας - Πεζοπορίας

30/11/2017
by Nikos Mitsakis

Μπότες Ορειβασίας – Γενικά

Οι μπότες ορειβασίας είναι ένα από τα σημαντικότερα αντικείμενα του εξοπλισμού μας. Αποτελούνται από τη σόλα, τον σκελετό και το πάνω μέρος. Υπάρχουν δύο βασικές κατηγορίες από μπότες, ανάλογα με τη χρήση που προορίζονται:

Οι μπότες για χαμηλό ή και μέσο βουνό
Οι μπότες υψηλού και πολύ υψηλού βουνού
Αν επιλέξουμε μπότες κακής ποιότητας αυτό θα έχει σαν αποτέλεσμα φουσκάλες, πόνο, κρύο και πιθανά κρυοπαγήματα. Γι΄αυτό το λόγο θα πρέπει να κάνουμε εκτενή έρευνα αγοράς και να επιλέξουμε την καταλληλότερη. Τα κριτήρια που θα πρέπει να ακολουθήσουμε στην επιλογή μπότας είναι:

Τα υλικά κατασκευής
Η λειτουργικότητα
Η άνεση
Η ασφάλεια
Το βάρος


1.1 Μπότες για χαμηλό και μέσο βουνό (ορεινής πεζοπορίας ή απλής ορειβασίας)

Οι μπότες αυτές είναι σχεδιασμένες κυρίως για ορεινή πεζοπορία μεγάλης διάρκειας σε χαμηλά σχετικά υψόμετρα, χειμώνα & καλοκαίρι. Μπορούμε να τις χαρακτηρίσουμε ως δύσκαμπτες μπότες, η σόλα δεν είναι τελείως άκαμπτη αλλά ούτε τελείως μαλακή όπως σε ένα αθλητικό παπούτσι. Το πάνω μέρος συνήθως είναι συνδυασμός από δέρμα και nylon ύφασμα πυκνής ύφανσης με ειδική επένδυση από διαπνέουσες μεμβράνες, Gore –Tex, που προσφέρουν αδιαβροχότητα και καλύτερη εξαγωγή υδρατμών. Η πολύωρη παραμονή σε χιόνι μπορεί να είναι προβληματική μιας και δεν διαθέτουν επαρκή θερμομόνωση. Επίσης δεν μπορούν να θεωρηθούν πλήρως αδιάβροχες. Είναι αρκετά άνετες σε μεγάλες πεζοπορίες ενώ ταυτόχρονα διαθέτουν τα στοιχειώδη χαρακτηριστικά για τις ανάγκες μιας σύντομης χειμερινής ανάβασης. Γενικά προτείνονται για γενική ορειβασία χωρίς πολλές και ιδιαίτερες απαιτήσεις.

1.2 Μπότες υψηλού και πολύ υψηλού βουνού

Διακρίνονται στις παρακάτω δύο κατηγορίες ανάλογα με την στιβαρότητα και την ακαμψία τους:

Σχεδόν άκαμπτες
Άκαμπτες

-Σχεδόν άκαμπτες

Προσφέρουν σημαντική ακαμψία αλλά με τον καιρό και την πολλή χρήση μαλακώνουν. Πρόκειται για πιο σκληρές μπότες με αδιαβροχοποιημένα δέρματα και είναι συνήθως πιο ψηλές από τις προηγούμενες μπότες τις κατηγορίας 1.1. Πολλές από αυτές έχουν μόνωση και θερμοκολλημένες σόλες, είναι σχεδιασμένες για αλπινισμό, δηλαδή χειμερινές αναβάσεις που παρουσιάζουν τεχνικές δυσκολίες όπως μικτά πεδία, αναρριχητικά περάσματα ακόμα και κατακόρυφο πάγο.

Τα υλικά που χρησιμοποιούνται για την αδιαβροχοποίηση της κυρίως μπότας (εκτός της σόλας) είναι από δέρμα μεταβλητού πάχους με ειδική επεξεργασία, οι μεμβράνες τύπου Gore-Tex, και το πλαστικό.

-Άκαμπτες Μπότες

Στις άκαμπτες μπότες τόσο η κατασκευή τους όσο και η ποιότητα των χρησιμοποιούμενων υλικών είναι τέτοια ώστε να προσφέρουν πλήρη ακαμψία. Η σόλα της μπότας παραμένει μονίμως επίπεδη σε οποιαδήποτε συνθήκη χρήσης. Η χρήση τους είναι κυρίως για αναρρίχηση σε χιόνι, πάγο και βράχο. Επίσης κατά το περπάτημά, η ακαμψία και η στιβαρότητά τους επιτρέπουν τη δημιουργία μικρών σκαλοπατιών σε σκληρό χιόνι. Οι περισσότερες δίνουν τη δυνατότητα εφαρμογής ενός συστήματος τριών στρωμάτων για το πόδι. Τα τρία αυτά στρώματα είναι η κάλτσα, που έρχεται σε άμεση επαφή με το πόδι απορροφώντας τον ιδρώτα, το εσωτερικό παπουτσάκι που προσφέρει προστασία από το κρύο και το εξωτερικό πλαστικό περίβλημα της μπότας που προσφέρει αδιαβροχοποίηση και ακαμψία. Πρέπει επίσης να πούμε ότι οι μπότες αυτές έχουν ταυτιστεί με τις πλαστικές μπότες αλλά υπάρχουν και μοντέλα με δέρμα.

πηγή: Adventure Club Hellas

Slacklining, ένας εναλλακτικός τρόπος γυμναστικής.

06/09/2017
by Nikos Mitsakis

Slacklining, ένας εναλλακτικός τρόπος γυμναστικής.

Το slacklining ( περπάτημα πάνω σε ιμάντα ισορροπίας ) πρωτοεμφανίστηκε με τη σύγχρονη μορφή του στις αρχές της δεκαετίας του '80 όταν οι Adam Grosowsky και Jeff Ellington  επισκεύθηκαν το Yosemite Valey για να κάνουν αναρρίχηση και βρέθηκαν στο γνωστό camp four όπου ήταν το κέντρο της ζωής του Yosemite. Εκεί είδαν ότι στόν ελεύθερο χρόνο τους οι αναρριχητές χρησιμοποιούσαν παλιά σχοινιά, ακόμα και αλυσίδες απο το πάρκο , για να περπατάνε πάνω τους, να μαθαίνουν καλύτερη ισορροπία και να γυμνάζονται.

Έχοντας και οι ίδιοι πειραματιστεί πάνω σε σχοινί και συρματόσχοινο, τους ήρθε η ιδέα να χρησιμοποιήσουν ιμάντα αναρρίχησης αντί για σχοινί. Επίσης ανέπτυξαν καλύτερη τεχνική για το τέντωμά του και έτσι γεννήθηκε το Slackline.

Απο τότε μέχρι τώρα το Slackline αναπτύχθηκε χρησιποιόντας καλύτερα, πιο σύχρονα και πιο γερά υλικά. Μαζί εξελίχθηκαν και οι τεχνικές του slacklining , απο απλό περπάτημα μέχρι κόλπα πάνω στον ιμάντα σαν σε τραμπολίνο.

Για κάποιον αρχάριο, το περπάτημα σε ενα slackline την πρώτη φορα μπορεί να του φανεί λίγο δύσκολο, για αυτό τον λογο στην αρχή στήνουμε τον ιμάντα μέχρι το ύψος του γόνατού μας σε απόσταση 5-6 μέτρων και αρκετά τεντωμένο.

Όσο όμως περισσότερο στεκόμαστε ή περπατάμε στο slackline τόσο πιο γρήγορα το μυαλό και το σώμα μας προσαρμόζονται στα νεα δεδομένα της ισορροπίας και έτσι σιγα σιγα μπορούμε να μεγαλώσουμε το μήκος του ιμάντα.

Αυτή η προσαρμογή που αποκτάμε είναι και το κυρίοτερο πρωταίρημα της γυμναστικής που μας προσφέρει το Slacklining λόγω του ότι όταν το σώμα συνηθίσει και μάθει κάτι μετά δεν “ξεχνάει” ακριβώς όπως και όταν πρωτομαθαίνει κάποιος να κάνει ποδήλατο.

Έτσι όποιος ασχοληθεί λίγο με το σπόρ μπορεί γρήγορα να περπατήσει έναν ιμάντα των 15 ή και των 25 μέτρων.

Το περπάτημα πάνω σε ένα slackline γυμνάζει αρκετούς μυς, ειδικότερα κοιλιακούς και πλάγιους, ραχιαίους και ώμους. Το πιο καλό όμως είναι οτι με την προσπάθεια που καταβάλει το σώμα να κρατηθεί σταθερό στον ιμάντα γυμνάζονται και μικρότερες δευτερεύουσες μυικές ομάδες οι οποίες είναι δύσκολο να απομονοθούν με απλές ασκήσεις.

Τέλος το σημαντικότερο ίσως είναι ότι για να κάνουμε Slackline θα βρεθούμε σε ένα πάρκο ή σε βουνό δηλαδή κοντά στη φύση και επίσης προκαλεί το ενδιαφέρον του κόσμου οπότε και δίνεται το έναυσμα για νέες γνωριμίες!

 

What Is “Softshell”?

20/12/2016
by Nikos Mitsakis

What Is “Softshell”?

Can a softshell replace your trusty hardshell in sustained rain or snowfall? Probably not. What softshells do best is keep you warm and dry while your heart rate is up in windy and/or damp weather.

“Softshell” is a class of knit or woven materials, made from polyester and nylon, used to make technical outdoor clothing that essentially bridges the gap between waterproof hardshell jackets and highly breathable fleece jackets. They’re more breathable (but less water and wind resistant), more flexible, and generally more durable than hardshell materials, and more protective than fleece. Softshells emerged in the early to mid-2000s in outdoor activities like climbing and mountaineering—aerobic activities with dynamic weather conditions, where a highly breathable, somewhat waterproof, somewhat windproof piece of technical clothing kept its wearer  moving, dry, and warm.

Softshells are designed with aerobic activities in mind. They perform the best when the wearer’s heart rate is high and weather conditions are variable. Most softshell materials trade some measure of waterproof-ness or windproof-ness for breathability and stretch, important qualities for activities like climbing, mountaineering, ski-touring, backpacking, cycling, and running.

Softshells vs. Hardshells

So what are the key differences between “softshell” and “hardshell”? Hardshell materials feature a woven face fabric laminated to breathable waterproof membranes (think Gore-Tex) or micro-porous coatings (there are a few dozen in-house proprietary coatings, The North Face’s HyVent and Marmot’s PreCip technologies are some of the most popular). These technologies keep out precipitation, but still allow for perspiration and water vapor to “breathe” from the garment—or at least some perspiration. As advanced as hardshell technologies are, with any hardshell, a measure of water vapor will be trapped inside the garment. In high-heart-rate activitiessay, through-hiking the Divide Trailthis means that even though your hardshell rain jacket is keeping out an afternoon thundershower, it’s also keeping you clammy and damp with perspiration and condensation.

On the other hand, many (but not all; more on that later) softshells rely only on a DWR coating on the surface of the fabric to keep out moisture. As a result, they sacrifice a measure of water and windproof-ness in favor of breathability, an important quality for aerobic activities. They’re also quieter and, thanks to a fleecy inner face, softer to the touch. This makes them more comfortable to wear, particularly with short- or no-sleeve shirts. On the downside, softshells are much less “packable” than hardshells—softshells tend to be somewhat bulkier and heavier as a function of their insulating properties.

Softshells vs. Fleece

A softshell may be made of hard-faced fleece—a fleece material with a woven “face” to increase wind and water resistance—but a softshell is not a fleece. Fleeces are soft, napped insulating fabrics made from synthetics or wool. Though fleeces are highly breathable, they are neither wind nor water resistant. WindStopper fleece presents an obvious exception to the rule: by laminating a wind-stopping membrane to the inside of fleece, the folks at W.L. Gore have created a fleece that is somewhat breathable, very wind resistant, but minimally water resistant. Softshells are typically wind and water resistant, and don’t pill or generate lint and pet-hair-attracting static, significant advantages over fleece.

Types of Softshells

“Softshell” covers a huge range of designs, technologies, and materials. Lightweight stretch-woven softshells are wind-resistant, water-repellent outer layers, but they’re breathable enough to keep a wearer dry in lighter precipitation during high-heart-rate activities like backpacking, cycling, and cross-country skiing. They’re also lighter weight, and can serve as a mid-layer under a hard shell.

Other softshells are designed for colder weather and wetter conditions, with windproof or waterproof laminates that make them more wind- and water-resistant. The most water-resistant softshells often have features similar features to hardshells, like taped seams and waterproof membranes. On the downside, they will be heavier and less breathable than stretch-woven softshells. But if you’re more concerned about weather protection than breathability or comfort during aerobic activities, these could be the choice for you.

Many jackets now feature a mix of softshell fabrics to balance protection with breathability, with burlier laminated fabric at the core and shoulders and more breathable fabric everywhere else.

The Takeaway

Softshells are breathable, hard-wearing, water-resistant, wind-resistant pieces of clothing that offer wearers freedom of movement and insulation for aerobic activities in dynamic weather conditions. Can a softshell replace your trusty hardshell in sustained rain or snowfall? Probably not. What softshells do best is keep you warm and dry while your heart rate is up in windy and/or damp weather, and you’ll probably find yourself reaching for it at many other times as well.

 

 

Nikwax secrets of waterproofing

04/03/2016
by Nikos Mitsakis

Care Tips for cleaning and waterproofing of clothing and footwear for your equipment

The NIKWAX waterproofing is world leading in water-based products that provide solutions in cleaning and waterproofing of clothing, footwear and equipment. Our solutions for cleaning and waterproofing, keeping you dry, warm and comfortable in wet weather and extend the life and performance of clothing, footwear and your equipment. Minimize the environmental impact, using water instead of chemical solvents and have never produce aerosols .The NIKWAX products contain flouorokarmpon, they are not flammable and does not eliminate harmful vapors. They also do not contain organic substances that pollute the environment, not tested on animals and are recyclable available in more than 50 countries and used by people around the world involved in sports and outdoor activities.

WATERPROOFING

A durable waterproofing layer (DWR) applied by manufacturers abroad fabric of clothing, footwear and equipment. This makes the raindrops remaining on the fabric surface when it rains and not penetrate the fabric. This is called "beading" (up water drops due to repulsion) If the fabric surface is dirty, dirt attracts and holds water, i.e. soaked reducing the insulating properties and the ability to breathe
Modern waterproof and breathable fabrics (eg Goretex, Ulterx, Entrant, SympaTex, Triple Point or eVENT) allow water vapor sweat expelled and keep the water on the outside of the fabric
However, when the surface of the fabric soaked / wet, sweat can not escape due to the reduction of transpiration efficiency of the membrane. For this reason some of our favorite clothes, shoes and equipment do not work as well as when purchased.
The DWR treatment can be renewed cleaning and waterproofing again with the appropriate Nikwax product. (You will recognize it by the purple cap on the bottle) The waterproofing NIkwax last for many washings and does not need to be reapplied after every wash as with other products

Proper maintenance = increased performance, additional comfort and extending the life of your equipment
 
CLEANING
 
Regularly clean clothing, footwear and equipment with suitable detergents Nikwax
(You will recognize them from prasinokapaki the bottle) Clothing and footwear remain clean, inspiring, perform better and last longer. Cleansing removes dirt, stains and contaminants caused by everyday use. The Nikwax cleaners waterproof fabric refresher water resistance of removing contaminants (hydrophilic) factors that attract water The Nikwax cleaning products are biodegradable liquid that effectively cleanse, remove dirt without damaging the waterproof membranes Clean items before the care with any waterproofing product Nikwax or applied directly to the fabric to remove stains or grease
 

 

INFLATABLE MATTRESS SLEEP

26/06/2014
by Φώτης Κουρμαδας

Just bought an inflatable mattress for use at home, in the countryside or at the campsite. Please read the following instructions carefully.


INSTRUCTIONS FOR USE - MAINTENANCE & REPAIR

>>Open and inflate the mattress in a place where the temperature is not lower than -15 C, after all inflatables are sensitive to cold.

>>Select as the flattest surface possible, free of any sharp objects that may damage the mattress.

>>To better protect the lower surface of the mattress is recommended to use a protective floor while protecting the top surface is recommended to use the sheet to cover

>>Avoid free report of the mattress in the sun. (Leave slightly deflated, the mattress to be more comfortable, but also to avoid possible damage to the seams of the pressure change of indoor air).

>>Do not strain or stretch the layer and generally do not inflate by mouth.

>>Do not use an air compressor to inflate the mattress. Prefer pumps foot or hand.

>>It is advisable to check the pressure of the mattress periodically, especially if you are going to sleep in this two people simultaneously.

>>Always store your mattress deflated, dry, carefully folded in properly ventilated area, free from moisture or dust.

>>Clean gently with your soft damp cloth layer when necessary. Do not use chemicals or harsh detergents that can cause damage to materials. Tighten the valve to prevent possible water leakage inside the balloon.

>>Do not walk or jumping on the mattress. It can cause damage to the seams.

>>Improper use of this product eliminates any warranty.

>>Small holes or tears can be repaired using the repair kit included in the box of the product, follow the instructions below:

 

For small holes:

>>Unscrew the valve and deflate the mattress.

>>Close the valve.

>>Put some glue by means of a toothpick onto the small hole and repeat the process.

>>Do not use the mattress for at least 5 hours. Then inflate, always following the existing directives.

 

For larger holes or tears:

>>Unscrew the valve and deflate the mattress.

>>Close the valve.

>>You cut the patch to the desired dimension and always in a circular or oval shape.

>>Apply the adhesive to the surface to be repaired.

>>Apply the patch and release, with a weight from above, for about 10 hours.

>>Then inflate the mattress always following these instructions.

Ice axe

04/03/2014
by Φώτης Κουρμαδας

The ice axe is the symbol of alpinism. Not enough but nobody keeps the ice ax in hand to qualify climber. We need to know and use it.

 

What exactly is the ice axe?


Is mountaineering hoe, a simple but valuable tool. It is the most important piece of equipment that we need to move on snow and ice. Its uses vary: Used to support and strengthen the balance and as a grip for promotion or as a research tool, cleaning or digging. Also used as security in the snow and as a brake if dropped. Although ax mutated key segments ax remain same, although their capabilities differ. The parts of the ice axe is the head, the shaft and the tip.

 

The types of ice axe


Generally there are three types of ice axes:


a) The hiking ice axe with the long stem (60 - 90 cm), the almost straight nose and wide shovel.The old wooden shaft has been replaced by lighter, but moderate strength aluminum alloys. Suitable for ascents and crossings on slopes with moderate slopes in snow.

 

b) The classic ice axe is closer than walking, have nose with more steep and narrow shovel.The stem has a length of about 60 cm. (When we keep the outstretched hand with head should refrain peak of about 10 inches from the ground). It is suitable for general use on the mountain. From simple winter hiking up routes - gutters - snow or ice.

 

c) The technical ice axes is closer than the classics, have nose with quite steep and narrow shovel or hammer.The staff has a length of about 40 - 60 cm (made from strong and lightweight aluminum alloy lined bottom rubber, with straight or curved handle on the bottom for better grip and hand guard against bumps. The head in most models accept spare leads and spare shovel or hammer depending on the slopes and the quality of the ice or just gives us the ability to change in case of disaster. The noses quite sharp and more jagged than the classic ice ax for better gripping on the ice.

An important criterion of the quality of an ice axe is the right balance and the feeling of the handle. For ice climbing with great flair is necessary to have two ice axes. In this case care one being '' March '' (with hammer).

 

Source of text: Magazine Korfes text Author: Aris Theodoropoulos

 

ΙNFORMATION FOR CRAMPONS

28/02/2014
by Φώτης Κουρμαδας

 

The mountaineering with snow without crampons is generally impossible. The crampons are metal frames with 10 vertical (downward) noses and usually two parallel forwardly. The crampons are adapted to the sole of the boot and serve to promote the hard snow or ice. The first authentic forged crampons were replaced by modern manufacturing equipment with emphasis on rigidity, reduced weight and maximum performance. The crampons marketed in three types:

 

1. Trekking Crampons

 

Classic hiking crampons are usually modular, with 2 or 3 joints. They are a light and a compromise solution that provides satisfactory performance in all types of low slope of snow. Simple hiking crampons need not have front noses. Made of special steel alloys and are medium strength. Due to low weight and many prefer to ski mountaineering. There crampons and aluminum only for special occasions.

 

2. Universal crampons

 

The Universal crampons for ice climbing, glacier crossing, rock climbing and ice climbing small size, designed for rigid or almost rigid boots, usually with horizontal front noses and are ideal for long difficult climbs in alpine ice and mountain hiking hard snow or frost. Made of special steel alloys.

 

3. Technical Crampons

 

This is especially crampons mainly for hard ice climbing and using a mixed field. Have jagged, vertical front noses, one or two points (mono point, multi point) and offer ease of setup nose and heel. They are made of special steel alloys, are heavier than those in general use, with great durability. In the technical crampons the front noses can be horizontal or vertical and slightly sloped or curved. The convex exploiting the curvilinear motion of the foot, achieve better penetration in ice. Often supported by two more on the front diagonal noses providing stability.

 

Fit to boot

The crampons must operate very well on the boot. A crampons are properly configured on the boot when they can stand without being tied straps.

The distance of the edge of the grate of the boots from the back of the heel must be not more than 5-10mm, when it is disposed. Unlike receptors crampons must not protrude forwardly. Therefore when purchasing crampons should be checked on the spot to adapt to boot. Depending on how the binding to the boot crampons are separated into:

 

 

  • laces

 

The laces, are suitable for very flexible boots (low mountain) and swabs are not completely rigid or almost rigid softened. The disadvantage is that in mixed ice routes - the rock is consuming the necessary "pull out - put" but have the advantage of being adapted to all types of boots.

 

 

 

  • semi fast

 

The semi fast have the same fastening system at the rear of the boot to that of fast, but in front have an intelligent fastening system with plastic strains and webbing. So it can be used in a wider range of boots. The installation time of the boot is as fast with these fast crampons.

 

 

 

  • fast

 

The fast crampons as indicated by their name come and go quickly through the mechanism available and consists of a bar at the front which catches the special groove having for this reason boots and a clip, similar to having the ski bindings, which engages in another recess in the back of the boot. Απαιτείται ιδιαίτερη προσοχή και ρύθμιση ώστε τα κραμπόν να προσαρμόζουν άριστα πάνω στη μπότα, ιδίως όταν αυτή είναι παγωμένη. For best bonding, but also for any loss if the crampons unfastened, there is a belt clip that ties around the ankle. The fast crampons are only suitable for rigid high and ultrahigh Mountain boots.

 

Anti-snow

 

The anti-snow tires shaped insole, adapted under the crampons and not allow the soft wet snow sticking to them when walking. And here there is great expertise, there are simply levels antistoumpotika and Blur. These have been rather better performance.

 

Πηγή : Adventure Club Hellas



Superlight Tents

25/02/2014
by Nikos Mitsakis

 

Looking for how to reduce the weight of the tent in half this summer? A tent with feather weight is what you are looking for.

 

FOR BUY

Consider the following options:

>> Choose a "conventional" ultra-lightweight tent if you want the easiest way to cut weight without sacrificing comfort. These designs are shown and operate pretty much as the standard tents, but have less weight and greater cost.Models of two persons in this category typically weigh 1.4-1.8 kg and costing 220-300 euros.

A: Small plastic clips for reinforcements not simply connecting body of the scene with reinforcements - also connecting the portions of reinforcements between them (and not only in the joints), thus reducing the total load.

B: Select the new material has hollow core (hollow-core) or double-twist fabric (double-twisted) for low weight with maximum durability. The Silnylon cuts even more grams, while materials such as spinnaker cloth and cuben fiber is strictly lighter - although spicily price and less durable.

C: Some reinforcements variable diameter taper from the top to the ground to save weight, to have a steeper slope the sides of the stage and to maintain stability.


•The belly button with a tap allows reinforcements to rotate, giving designers the ability to produce a variety of scenes shapes.
•The visor clips may connect the reinforcements at many angles, even at 90 degrees.
•Select scene with hubs (connections which allow the combination of short and long sections) for more living space and up to 25% less weight.


>> The real fanatics directed to projects that use structures that save weight -as the tents erected by hiking baton-, and high-tech materials to even fall at 700 grams. for a tent for two people. These models cost much conventional ultralight tents, but are usually less durable, less stable in bad weather and require training to successfully erected.

>> In both categories the nonfreestanding models (ie those who do not stand without stakes) offer better ratio space / weight, while the freestanding models are easier in their setup - especially on difficult surfaces such as gravel or sand.

>> Make small concessions in the area. If a tent is extended in one dimension, it cuts elsewhere to compensate. Use your body type as a guide: the tall choose a longer design with more narrow base, while more short and wide campers choose less length and more space in the region of the elbow or head.

>> In the single wall models, in which the body of the scene is waterproof, saves considerable weight, but suffer from moisture condensation problems. The double wall tents behave better in wet weather.

 

USE

The tents with feather weight require special care when erected. Below given are some tips for using them:

>> Reduce condensation (the drawback of single-wall tents) erecting it under a tree and not an open point. Let the vestibules and the vents completely open for maximum ventilation.

>> Set back from natural windbreaks, as bushes or rocks, and place the angle to the wind.

>> Protect the floor of the tent making sure to carefully remove sharp sticks, stones and other debris from the point - and always use a plastic cover underneath.

>> Air conditions, when setting up a tent which uses as supports hiking sticks, secure first all angles with stones on the poles. After quickly integrate the reinforcements and place stakes on all turnbuckles.

>> Mark the reinforcements (eg with tape) so that you can quickly adjust the length hiking in length for setting up the tent.

 

REPAIR

>> The Silnylon requires thermal seams to ensure water resistance of the (n factory film seams are not bonded to the silicone).

>> Carry a light repair kit bag with zipper: a small tube of Seam Grip, an underwire section and some mending tape pieces.

 

DECODE NUMBERS

Manufacturers indicate the weight of the stage in various ways. When you compare tents, the minimum weight gives the most reasonable number.

>> Minimum weight: only the body, the reinforcements and the cover - not the stakes, tensioners, the plastic material coming off the stage and the bag of storage.

>> Packaged weight: what is sold together with the scene.

>> Pitchlight / fastpitch weight: only the cover, the reinforcements and the base plastic.

 

source: magazine Climbing / http://www.anevenontas.gr/articles/drpro/1671-yper-elafries-skhnes

Mountaineering-Hiking Boots

24/02/2014
by Nikos Mitsakis

 

General

The mountaineering boots are one of the main objects of our equipment. They consist of the sole, the frame and the top. There are two main types of boots, depending on the intended use:

 

>>Boots for low or medium mountain

>>The high and very high mountain boots

 

If we choose shoddy boots will result in blistering, pain, cold and possible frostbite. For this reason we should do extensive market and choose the most appropriate. The criteria should be followed in selecting the boot is:

 

>>The materials

>>Functionality

>>Comfort

>>Security

>>Weight

 

1.1 Boots for low and medium mountain (trekking or mountaineering)

The boots are designed mainly for mountain hiking long at relatively low altitudes, winter & summer.  We characterize them as flexible boots, the sole is not completely rigid but not completely soft as a sports shoe.The top is usually a combination of leather and nylon tightly woven fabric with a special coating of breathable membranes, Gore -Tex, offering water resistance and better export steam. The long stay in the snow can be problematic since not adequately insulated. Also can not be considered fully waterproof. It's pretty comfortable over long hikes while having the minimum characteristics for the needs of a short winter ascent. Generally recommended for general mountaineering without many special requirements.

 

1.2 Boots high and very high mountain

Divided into the following two categories depending on the strength and stiffness:

 

>>Almost rigid

>>Rigid

 

Almost rigid Boots

They offer a significant stiffness but with time and a lot of use softened. This is the toughest boots waterproofed leathers and are usually taller than Class 1.1 previous boots.Many of these are insulated and thermally soles are designed for alpinism, ie winter ascents presenting technical difficulties such as mixed fields, climbing passages even vertical ice.

The materials used for waterproofing of the particular boot (outside the insole) is of variable thickness skin with a special treatment, the Gore-Tex membranes, and plastic.

 

Rigid Boots

In rigid boots both the manufacture and quality of the materials used are such as to provide complete rigidity. The sole of the boot remains permanently flat in any condition of use.Their use is mainly for climbing on snow, ice and rock. Also when walking, rigidity and robustness allow the creation of small steps in hard snow. Most allow implementation of a system of three layers for the foot. These three layers are the sock that comes into direct contact with the foot, absorbing sweat, the inner shoe, which provides protection from the cold and the outer plastic shell of the boot which provides waterproofing and rigidity.We must also say that these boots have been identified with plastic boots but there are models with skin.

 

Washing and maintenance of the sleeping bag

24/02/2014
by Nikos Mitsakis

The sleeping bag is the last refuge after a hard day usually. Most of us do not give much attention, leave him compressed in a loft for weeks, did not wash ever, but ask him a lot. Here are some tips that will make your sleeping bag to serving you for years without complaint.

 

Wash and dry a sleeping bag


A simple washing can restore a properly used sleeping bag and n 'revive the ability of the feathers to insulate you. Follow the steps below to wash both down, and synthetic sleeping bags.

>> Never wash a sleeping bag in a washing machine filled from above; the agitator will destroy the internal walls of the sleeping bag. Use a washer fills front and a large bathroom.


>> Upload completely unzipped, close all bindings from Velcro and turn it inside out.

>> Avoid always normal detergents and liquid soap. Use only mild detergent powder (eg the Nikwax Down Wash), designed specifically for washing sleeping bags. Use cold water and set the machine on a program for delicate clothes.

>> Repeat rinsing twice for departing soap.


>> Remove wet sleeping bag of laundry in the dryer. Hold the stretched over both your hands to prevent the filling of wet penetrate bulkheads.

>> Set the dryer is low, pour two tennis balls and relax reading a book - most sleeping bags need several hours to dry completely. Perhaps the best solution is for at least a day, exposure to dry air.


>> Periodically check the sleeping bag to make sure it does not overheat and to break it any insulating material masses.

 

How to hang a sleeping bag


>> To ensure the best possible performance from your sleeping bag, the hang loosely in a dry place. Place a hook in the ceiling of the closet where you store your materials or fix a taut wire for hanging various materials separately carabiner. Make sure the sleeping bag does not touch the floor. If you do not have space to hang it, store it in a large, breathable, cotton or mesh bag. Never let a feather or synthetic sleeping bag inside the case for long periods.

 

source: magazine Anevenontas

http://www.anevenontas.gr/articles/techniques/1547-plysimo-ypnosakou